Posted by Chris B on January 16, 2003 at 14:43:58:
In Reply to: Denatured alcohol to clean valves? posted by Bill on January 14, 2003 at 10:11:17:
Ethanol is used extensively as a solvent in the manufacture of varnishes and perfumes; as a preservative for biological specimens; in the preparation of essences and flavorings; in many medicines and drugs; as a disinfectant and in tinctures (e.g., tincture of iodine); and as a fuel and gasoline additive (see gasohol). Many U.S. automobiles manufactured since 1998 have been equipped to enable them to run on either gasoline or E85, a mixture of 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. E85, however, is not yet widely available. Denatured, or industrial, alcohol is ethanol to which poisonous or nauseating substances have been added to prevent its use as a beverage; a beverage tax is not charged on such alcohol, so its cost is quite low. Medically, ethanol is a soporific, i.e., sleep-producing; although it is less toxic than the other alcohols, death usually occurs if the concentration of ethanol in the bloodstream exceeds about 5%. Behavioral changes, impairment of vision, or unconsciousness occur at lower concentrations.
Rubbing Alcohol is Isopropyl, also known as Isopropanol.
It is poisonous if taken internally. It is a major component of rubbing alcohols. Isopropanol is a secondary alcohol. It is one of the cheapest alcohols and has replaced ethanol for many uses because of its similar solvent properties.
I find that ethanol is a better degreaser. It may (I've never tried it on brass instruments) have the ability to attack nitro cellulose lacquer, but don't quote me on it.
Both are availble at major drug stores although ethanol (ask for denatured alcohol) is a bit harder to find. Also used as the fuel in alcohol sotves. I use it to degrease things like computer keyboards when they become filty from use. It cuts through the finger oils left after long periods of time.
I am looking at a relatively new valve oil called Binak that supposedly doesn't leave residues, etc. as do petroleum based oils. http://www.binak.com/ I know there are those that swear at rather than by synthetics, but the people I talked with (not the company) have had great reports about it and they sell pretty much any valve oil on teh market today. Hasn't arrived yet, so I have no experience to draw from. I would use the heavier one on tuba valves. The light one is more for tight trumpet valves with very close tolerances. If it really does solve the stickiness, residue, heat issues, etc. great.
Anyway, just my thoughts.