Posted by Karl on July 16, 2001 at 12:02:04:
Picking a tuba without the opportunity to visit a major tuba retailer is very difficult. I totally agree when Matt Walters when he told me to "come in and let the tuba pick you". Last fall I was fortunate enough to visit Dillons while in the NJ area on business, unfortunately I missed meeting Matt. Now, after much reading about tubas on TubeNet and TubaEuph, I want to purchase my first tuba.
I would be interested in pointers from the more experienced buyers and retailers on how one should pick out their first tuba, when they do not have the opportunity to visit a major tuba retailer.
Here is a start, based mostly from discussions with tuba retailers, area pros and monitoring discussion groups:
1) Determine budget including financing.
2) Determine the type of playing which helps determine the size. For example, a serious high school student who already has decided to enter college as a tuba major (especially tuba performance) should contact the school's tuba instructor for suggestions. Likely would choose a CC full sized horn. In contrast, I was a music ed major some 25 years ago. While tuba was my primary instrument, I always used the school's horn (a full sized BBb rotary Marzan). Now, not having played much since college, I want to buy a tuba to play mostly in a medium sized orchestra as well as ensemble work, but purely amatuer. Seems the best for me would be a full sized BBb tuba. In another example, if you are purely amateur and plan on playing mostly small ensemble and community band, a 3/4 sized tuba may be fine.
3) How many valves? For the first time buyer, probably 4. If you are that performance major buying that CC, would likely want to get the fifth valve, if it is within your budget. 3 valves should only be considered for the young beginner or the amateur under a tight budget, who will be playing mostly in a community band.
4) Rotary or piston, and if piston, do you want top or front action? Based upon the discussions I have seen, there are a lot of opinions. In my case, last year I was preferring rotary, because that is what I played in college. After reading discussions on pistons, seeing the apparent shift toward pistons in the more expensive models, as well as having the opportunity to borrow a nice piston tuba several times this past year, I have no real preference, but I am leaning toward front action piston. This is one of those areas where it would be great to play it. For a person who tends to neglect the care and feeding of their tuba, or for the tuba that may sit quite awhile between playing, pistons may be a better choice. A frozen piston is much easier to fix than a rotary.
5) Sound: American vs German sound, dark vs brilliant, projection, free-blowing, intonation, etc.. This may be the hardest to choose. Again there is a lot of discussion on this. Quite frankly, I think the average high schooler or amateur buying their first horn does not have the ear to tell much of the difference or the embrouchre and breath support to be consistent. This is the area where it is important to be able to visit a tuba retailer along with someone who does have the ear (the retailer, if you trust them, or bring some one). Again, this is an important reason to visit a retailer with someone who can listen to you, but for this discussion we are saying that is not an opportunity. So what do you do?
6) Talk to area tuba professionals. Find out who teaches at area colleges/university or who plays in area orchestras. For example, in my case, there is not a tuba retail store within 10 hours of Orlando, FL , however I sit in an area rich in musical talent. I have learned a lot through brief conversations with people like Gail Robertson, Ed Firth, Claude Kashnig, Rob Carpenter and Willie Clark (THANK YOU ALL). These area pros may also be a source to find good used tubas. Others you may want to talk to are area band directors and music stores (like their brass repair person), however, keep in mind that they may not know much. I doubt is any of the area music stores have sold a full sized tuba (lots of guitars though).
7) Talk to the tuba retailers. THEY KNOW THEIR BUSINESS and most are very helpful. Matt Walters (Dillons), Mike Russo (Brasswinds) and David Fedderly (Baltimore Brass) have been particularly helpful to me. I sincerely get the impression from them that it is more important to them to help me select the right horn than it is to sell it. I am sure there are others who are the same, but these are the gentlemen that have helped me.
8) Montitor TubeNet. I have learned a lot from the posters of TubeNet (and TubaEuph). You learn to qualify the more frequent posters and this tend to value their opinions.
9) Used or New. You definately can buy a used tuba for "more bang for the buck". One could start an entire other thread on the techniques to buy a used tuba, but generally a good rule a thumb, if possible, is to know the seller. Again monitoring discussion groups can help. eBay can be a good source IF YOU HAVE AN IDEA OF THE VALUE of the tuba. You also need to decide if you are willing to play a tuba that works great, but may look like ----.
I hope this helps someone. I would love to hear others add or comment, because I still can use some help. In my case I have done most of the above and still have problems deciding. I consider myself the amateur who would like a full sized horn in the $3k to $4k area. I would love to be able to play the new King as well as the VMI 2301 and 3301, but I do not see that happening, at least in the near future. Therefore if I want to buy a horn within the next month, I have to rely, some what reluctantly, on the opinions expressed in discussion groups as well as the retailers. That is why I think Matt Walters suggestion to qualify one's self when posting opinions is important. While I still would like to read everyone's opinion, I would tend to listen to someone who plays professional as a living or works within the field than to the amateur or high school student.
Karl "wish someone was selling a great used BBb tuba in Central FL" Parks
Orlando, FL