What constitutes the price of a tuba?


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Posted by Karl Parks on May 04, 2001 at 11:09:06:

I am being curious. There is such a wide difference in price of similar sized tubas. I realize that the most expensive are usually hand-crafted and made-to-order. I also realize that labor cost can make some differences especially in the VERY CHEAP China bird companies that are just plain JUNK, but enough said about them. I also realize that generally the more valves means higher price.

I was wondering what in the manufacturing techniques or parts used determines the cost.

Let take one size, say a full sized (4/4) 4 valved (piston or rotary) lacquer tuba. I see prices for new tubas ranging from $2500 (the new Weril) up to and over $6000. This discussion group has been kind to such lesser expensive horns as the VMI 2103 as well as the Jupiter, Cervenys (including the various stencils), Yamaha, etc.. Other companies have not received as much praise, but I do not want this discussion to be a company war.

The difference between the Miraphone S186-4U and 186-4U is a good example of the type of discussion that I would like to pursue, where they state what is the difference. (Even then I am surprised that the differences in material makes a $500 difference in price).

Therefore for this discussion, some questions might be:
What are the differences in the less expensive horns and the middle to top of the line?
What are some short cuts used my manufactures to cut cost? Is it mostly in production techniques such as assembly lines or are they using less expensive parts?
Can one assume that the more expensive horns have better quality control in their assembly? and thus should be better and more consistent in intonation and sound? (This question may lead to more opinions than fact)
What are the differences in parts? used such as valve assemblies, silver lead/brass braces and slides, etc. in less expensive horn versus mid and top?
What should one look at and avoid?
How do tell a Monet piston from another type?

Try to keep this discussion to the manufacturing techniques and parts used and avoid personal opinions on how it plays or sounds (unless the manufacturing/parts can be determined to effect the sound). Or at least try to state when it is an opinion. For example, I recall reading that the Cerveny's use of thinner brass made it more bright than say a Miraphone. On the other hand, I tend to recall reading a description of a horn where the retailer said the thinner brass made a more darker sound. Maybe I read it wrong or my memory may be failing? Does the sound created by thinner brass instruments produce a different sound or is this a matter of opinion?

CAVEAT TO NEW MEMBERS LOOKING FOR A NEW HORN:
Discussions like this may help you select or narrow your choices, but one thing I learned while reading articles in this newsgroup is:
Select the horn within your budget based upon how it feels and sounds to you (or a trained listener like your instructor), which of course means you have to play it and of course within you budget. Piston, rotary, silver, laquer, thin brass, 19" bell, bore size, etc. are only important after you are comfortable with the horn.



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